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When storing any game in a freezer it is important to wrap the specimen
well. For short periods of a month or so a zip lock or plastic bag will work.
For periods longer than that you need to guard against freezer burn
(drying out). To prevent burn the item must be LAYERED. Wrap the item
in a combination of paper and plastic layers or even tin foil. If the specimen
is wrapped properly it can survive years in the freezer.
We have mounted birds that were properly stored in the freezer for 12.5 years.
Even though it is best to prevent freezer burn we have been able to
rehydrate specimens that have been neglected. Don't discard your
trophy until we have a chance to evaluate it.
For those trips away from home, feel free to call and discuss with us what
is needed to transport and protect your trophy for the ride home
Always handle your trophy as if you were going to eat it .
Cool down and refrigerate or freeze the specimen as soon as is feasible
Most Birds broken bones, scull, beak and feet can be repaired.
Whitetails and all large game
should be skinned, leaving the head intact and a large capeskin attached.
We will be glad to evaluate if your trophy is mountable at no charge.
Bring a picture of a bird position from a magazine you like or a color
photo of your fish. Photo's help us recreate the mount to your expectations
|How to Cape a Big Game animal
If you want to make a full shoulder mount, do not cut open the chest cavity. Cut the
diaphragm away from the ribs all the way down to the backbone area. Reach into the
forward chest cavity, find the esophagus and windpipe, cut them off as far up as
possible (Figure C), and pull them down though the chest.
The process of skinning out a trophy animal, is best left to our shop if you are local. Our experience skinning, especially the
delicate nose, mouth, eyes, and ears is invaluable toward producing a quality mount. Damage to a hide is costly to repair.
Some types of damage simply cannot be "fixed".. Warm, humid weather accelerates bacteria growth. In remote areas a
competent person may be required to cape out the hide in order to preserve it.
We have a preferred method of caping a hide. See video below or Contact us at 502 493 7787
for a free DVD on how to cape out the head yourself
However, the following techniques are generally acceptable.
|THE FLAT INCISION:
This method is used for rug mounts and for a variety of purposes. The areas to be
cut are shown in Figure 1. Make these slits (cutting the feet free from the carcass)
and pull the skin of the carcass. The head is detached as with the shoulder mount.
|CAPING FOR A SHOULDER MOUNT:
1. With a sharp knife, slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at
approximately the mid-way point of the rib cage behind the front legs. Slit the skin
around the legs just above the knees. An additional slit will be needed from the
back of the leg joining the body cut behind the legs (Figure 2A and 2B).
2. Peel the skin forward up to the ears and jaws exposing the head/neck junction.
Cut into the neck approximately three inches down from this junction. Circle the
neck cutting down the spinal column. After this cut is complete, grasp the antler
bases and twist the head off the neck. This should allow the hide to be rolled up
and put in a freezer until transported to our shop. These cuts should allow ample
hide for us to work with in mounting. Remember, the we can cut off excess hide
but we can't add what we don't have.
Note: When field dressing a trophy to be mounted, don't cut into the brisket
(chest) or neck area. Avoid dragging the deer out of the woods
with a rope. Place it on a plastic sled or 4-wheeler. The rope, rocks, or a
broken branch from a dead fall can easily damage the fur or puncture the hide. If
you have no choice but to drag it out with a rope, attach the rope to the base of the
antlers and drag your trophy carefully.
Do not gut your animal.
Animals, coyote sized or smaller, should not be skinned or gutted unless by a professional.
Small mammals, especially Predators, will spoil quickly because of their thin hide and bacteria. As soon as the carcass
cools completely, put it in a plastic bag and freeze it.
"click here to print Game Tag" -
Do not gut your bird.
Rinse off any blood on the feathers with water. . In the field carry a womans panty hose and slide the bird in head first
to protect the feathers. When returning from afield put the bird into a plastic bag for freezing ,being careful not to
damage the feathers, including the tail. (see additional info above) If the bird's tail feathers do not fit in the bag do not
bend them. Let the tail stick out of the bag and tie the bag loosely. Ship or deliver the bird to our shop ASAP or freeze it.
"click here to print Game Tag"
Do not gut your fish.
If you can not take your fish immediately to our shop, wrap it in a very wet bath towel and put it in a plastic bag, making
sure all the fins are flat against the fish's body (to prevent breakage), and freeze it. A fish frozen with this method can
safely be kept in the freezer for months.
"click here to print Game Tag"
Always have appropriate Tags or Confirmation Numbers with your trophies when you bring them to our
Songbirds, eagles, hawks, and owls (any bird that does not have a legal hunting season) are protected by
Federal Law and can not be mounted without a special Federal permit. Schools, Museums, and Like establishments
are the only entities that can even possess them after mounting.
When you are hunting without a experienced person to skin out the head for you or freezer to store it in. Click here to
see a video on how to cape your animal. Apply plenty of salt to the hide when refrigeration is not available. These
processes will preserve your trophy in remote locations.
Some information provided by McKenzie Taxidermy Supply.
|Click below to see a video on how to totally skin out your Game Head
Local hunters please bring unskinned heads for us to do
|Sportsman's Taxidermy LLC 2009 All Rights Reserved
|Sportsmans Taxidermy is a Registered Kentucky "Service Mark"
|Where quality is an"Attitude"
|Sportsman's Taxidermy LLC